More than any other, September is the month of transition. Technically speaking, two thirds of it is still summer, but our thoughts have taken a turn for the autumnal. The torrid heat has given way to fresher temperatures, the days are growing shorter, and we are all going back to work or school. And once more, our bodies crave more substantial meals; our palates are ready to move on from those summer salads that began to pall long ago, however colourful they are.
September, however, is also the month when we pick ...